Summa adds up to good food and service | Dining review

This near-west-side restaurant has been the site of numerous short-lived eateries. It's my hope that Summa will be the one to experience longevity in this location. The food and service are exceptional; even the vibe is great, which I'm sure is because of those two factors.

The menu is divided into three sections. First, D'ovens are one-pot meals highlighting such comfort foods as sausage and peppers ($12), served in a small, covered, enameled cast iron pot. It's packed full of the advertised main ingredients with lots of red, yellow and green bell peppers, onions and medallions of flavorful Spanish sausage — although we weren't told which variety.

Just know this is not a standard blend of pork and spices. The only complaint, which is a reflection of how much the food was enjoyed, is the serving should be larger.

By contrast, the Burger Picnic ($18) is a substantial amount of food. It features four sliders and requires choices to be made. Choose any combination of the four possibilities: blackened blue cheese; queso; Swiss and mushroom; or cheddar and bacon.

For the first time out, I suggest one of each. The creamy queso oozes over the patty with a slow-to-the-palate jolt of heat. I'm a fan of blue cheese and was not disappointed by it or any of the mini burgers. All four were well cooked and seasoned; I'm not sure I can pick a favorite, so I would probably order the same again.

Beautifully plated and hamburgers aren't always in the same sentence, but that's what happens here. The presentation of the sliders in Hawaiian rolls with four tomato slices atop arugula on one corner of the square plate opposite a checkered napkin shaped like a rose is impressive.

The burgers and four other entrees are part of the Fork n Knife menu section. Included here are a meatball marinara sandwich, highlighting house-made sauce, Creole fried chicken and a spin on a Philly cheesesteak made with bison and queso. There's also something called a Blintzini; it could also be called a crepezini, but the former sounds better. Two crepes, or blintzes or really thin pancakes, are filled with a variety of mushrooms — something Summa calls "mushroom caviar."

Sides n Stuff is the third section of the menu. Salads, hummus, crostini and "shotgun pots" are among the offerings. We shared the loaded style ($8) of the latter. Crispy red and gold spuds topped with cheese, bacon, green onions and sour cream are mini forms of potato skins. These are easily shareable and a nice accompaniment to the burger picnic.

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Seasonal fruit cobbler ($12) is served in a similar pot as the D'ovens (since that's where it's included on the menu). We ordered the pear and whisky. A scoop of vanilla ice cream on the crumb topping hides the fruit. Because the pears were not fully cooked, it was necessary to cut them with a spoon — no easy task. Nonetheless, the combined juices of the pear and liquor made for a satisfying end to the meal.

Visit cpe bag homepage for more details.

Decor is industrial, with a full bar and an upstairs for overflow and/or private parties.

Summa

Comfort food and taphouse.

Location: 817 W. Colorado Ave.

Contact: 1-719-444-8487

Prices: $7 to $30

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating (seasonal).

Favorite dishes: Burger Picnic; loaded shotgun pots.

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.

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